How to Clean Nubuck Shoes

Nubuck is a luxurious leather finish that lends itself to undeniably stylish shoes. It’s also known for being a high-maintenance material, which can put some people off from choosing to wear it.

With the right tools and techniques, though, keeping nubuck looking its best is easier than you might think. In this blog post, we’ll show you how to clean nubuck the right way, along with the mistakes to avoid.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

• What are nubuck shoes?
• Step-by-step: how to clean nubuck shoes
• How to Protect and Maintain Nubuck Shoes

What Are Nubuck Shoes?

Nubuck is a top-grain leather whose outer surface has been buffed or sanded to create an extra-soft, velvety texture. It has a fine nap and a luxurious feel. It’s popular for shoe styles like loafers and court shoes.

This material differs from suede, although the two are commonly confused. Nubuck is made from the tougher outer part of an animal’s hide, while suede comes from the softer inner layer. This makes nubuck more durable and harder wearing than suede.

Nubuck differs from smooth leather in that its surface can’t be polished or wiped. This material needs specialist care, and if you own nubuck shoes, you either need to learn this care routine or take your shoes to a professional for cleaning.

Step-by-Step: How to Clean Nubuck Shoes

Cleaning nubuck is a process that needs to be done in a specific order. Broadly, you dry clean with a cloth first and wet only if needed, then restore the texture. Here are some things to keep in mind before starting:

• This material is highly absorbent and can stain easily, so proceed with care
• Never use standard leather polish or cream, as these will ruin the nap (the soft, velvety surface)
• Test any products on a hidden area of the shoe first
• Have the right tools to hand before you start to make sure you can do the full clean in one go

Step 1: Prepare the Shoes

First, you need to get the shoes ready for cleaning. Remove the laces if your shoes have them and set them aside. If your shoes are muddy, let the mud dry completely before starting - trying to clean it while wet will push dirt deeper into the nap.

Next, insert shoe trees or stuff the shoes with paper. This holds their shape and gives you a firm surface to work against. Work in a well-lit area so you can clearly see what you’re doing.

Step 2: Dry Clean the Shoes and Remove Dirt & Scuffs

Remember: start dry! For most everyday cleaning, you won’t need to get any liquids involved.

Use a nubuck brush to lift the loose dirt and dust away, taking care to brush consistently in one direction to preserve the nap.

If there are scuffs or stubborn marks, use a nubuck eraser (you can also use a clean pencil rubber), using gentle back-and-forth pressure. Brush again afterwards to restore the texture.

Step 3: Wet Clean Shoes if There are Deeper Stains

If step 2 hasn’t worked well enough, move on to this step. And remember to tread carefully: water and other liquids can easily cause damage to nubuck if not handled correctly. Also, make sure you have a specialist nubuck cleaning product and follow the instructions carefully.

Apply a small amount with a clean, damp (not wet) cloth. Work across the whole panel where the blemish is, rather than just on the stain itself. This ensures a consistent finish across the panel rather than patchiness.

Use the absolute minimum required liquid to achieve the desired result. Never use any other liquids or products than a small amount of water and specialist cleaner. Things like washing up liquid, household cleaners or saddle soap will damage the nubuck.

Step 4: Dry the Shoes (Air Dry Only!)

Nubuck is fragile, as we’ve established. You have to take care at the drying stage too.

Only ever air-dry your nubuck shoes. Resist the urge to use radiators, hairdryers, sunlight or any other source of direct heat, even if you’re in a hurry. These will cause stiffness, fading and potentially even cracks.

To dry, pat off any excess moisture with a clean, dry cloth, then leave to dry naturally at room temperature in a well-ventilated area. Keep shoe trees or stuffed paper inside while drying to hold the shape of the shoes.

Nubuck can take a few hours to dry fully, so be patient. Only move on to the next step once they’re fully dry.

Step 5: Restore the Nap

Just dried nubuck can look flattened or matted, but fear not: this is easily fixed.

Use a nubuck brush to brush the surface in different directions, then settle it all in one direction. This will lift and revive the texture. For stubborn areas resistant to brushing, use a nubuck eraser.

This is the most important step and will make the shoes feel like their original selves. There’s a difference between clean and like new, and restoring the nap is what makes the difference.

How to Protect and Maintain Nubuck Shoes

Now you’ve got your nubuck shoes clean; here’s how to maintain the cleanliness and protect them against dirt or damage. These are the steps that keep nubuck looking good long-term.

• Use nubuck protector spray: apply specialist waterproofing/protection spray before your first wear and reapply it regularly. This is really important given how absorbent nubuck is.
• Brush regularly: give your shoes a quick brush after each wear to keep the nap lifted and prevent any dirt from settling in
• Act quickly: if your shoes get stained, the quicker you clean it the better the chance you’ll have of removing it
• Avoid wet weather: nubuck does not do well in wet weather, so if rain is forecast, choose another pair of shoes!
• Store them properly: keep your nubuck in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, and use shoe trees to hold their shape
• Rotate your shoes: don’t wear your nubuck shoes every day - giving them space to breathe between wears will help them to stay in good condition for longer

As Good as Nu(buck)

Nubuck shoes bring a touch of class to any wardrobe, and they’re more than worth the additional effort they require compared to other shoe types. If you’re looking for a new pair of nubucks for your collection, take a look at our leather shoe collection today. You can also head into a store or get in touch if you have any questions about caring for your shoes.